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Half-Half Ikura (Salted Gently Seasoned Salmon Caviar)

Half-Half Ikura (Salted Gently Seasoned Salmon Caviar)

I picked up a pound of sujiko, which is fresh salmon roe still in its sack, from Mitsuwa on our way back from an Aikido seminar yesterday. Both of my kids absolutely love ikura, which is the cured version, but it’s so expensive that I 

Uni Pasta with Shiso Flowers

Uni Pasta with Shiso Flowers

I’m an absolute fiend for uni (sea urchin roe) but the creamy, briney, full of ocean flavor disappears far too quickly when I eat it sushi or sashimi style. As a pasta sauce, I can savor it for longer and feel full, rather than regretting 

Maitake Tempura with Sweet Soy Braised Poblano Peppers

Maitake Tempura with Sweet Soy Braised Poblano Peppers

You all knew this one was coming–one can’t find a windfall of maitake and not make tempura with it. Maitake mushrooms, once what moisture was within it evaporates during the frying process, holds the crunch of the panko very well. It also retains its texture without becoming mushy. A dusting of corn starch before dredging in the batter will keep the batter from sliding off in the oil.

The braised poblano peppers have a nice kick, but not knock your socks off spicy and were made from a gift of peppers from some friends who managed to grow a lot this year (not a single pepper was to be seen in my garden.) It was an attempt to bring back memories of my grandmother, who would make this delicious side dish, and I could eat an entire bowl of rice with just a single pepper (her choice of chili was also much spicier.) This can be done with just about any meaty pepper.

Swimming in a sweet and savory soy marinade, it provides the perfect, tender foil for my crispy tempura.

I topped the bowl off with scallion and a duck egg, just for some extra decadence.

Ingredients for sweet soy braised poblano peppers

  • 4 – 7 polano peppers, deseeded
  • 1/2 cup soy sauce
  • 1/4 cup sake
  • 1/8 cup mirin
  • 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • Cooking oil, for pan
  1. In a bowl, combine soy sauce, sake, mirin, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, and garlic.
  2. In an oiled pan over medium high heat, roast the poblano peppers until skin is slightly charred and flesh is beginning to tenderize.
  3. Add sauce and turn heat to medium-low, braise until liquid is reduced to about half. Remove from heat and store in a container up to 1 week.

Ingredients for Maitake Tempura

  • 1 bunch fresh maitake mushroom (about 2 fist sized clusters)
  • 1 egg
  • 1 cup iced water
  • 1/2 cup all purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup panko breading
  • 1/2 cup corn starch
  • Enough vegetable oil to cover 3 inches of the bottom of the pot
  • Bowl of hot white rice
  • Tentsuyu (3:1:1 Dashi Stock:Soy sauce:Sake)
  • Lemon wedge
  • Grated Daikon (pureed radish can be used in place)
  • Scallions, for garnish
  • 1 egg, fried or poached
  • 1 sweet soy braised poblano pepper, chopped
  1. Heat pot of oil over medium high heat, until the oil sizzles when you drop in a few pieces of panko. Do not allow to smoke. It should just sizzle and bubble around the batter (and there should be lots of bubble but they should be tiny–if the bubbles are big, your heat is too high), taking some time to reach the golden colored stage–you don’t want the outside to burn before the inside is done.
  2. In a bowl, gently beat egg, water, and flour until combined into a thin batter.
  3. Coat maitake in thin dusting of corn starch and then dip in batter and dredge through panko breading. Fry in oil until golden, flipping gently if necessary, and drain on paper towel.
  4. Mix tentsuyu with grated daikon. Arrange tempura on top of rice with egg, peppers, garnish with scallions, pour tentsuyu radish mixture over the tempura. Serve while hot and crispy with a lemon wedge.
Garlic Miso Grilled Maitake with Yakiniku Style Citrus Scallion Sauce

Garlic Miso Grilled Maitake with Yakiniku Style Citrus Scallion Sauce

Fall is here and that means maitake mushrooms are out in full force! I finally crossed it off the bucket list of mushrooms that I wanted to find and eat this week when I came across several clusters nestled at the base of an oak 

Kani Miso (Crab Tomalley) With Scorched Rice

Kani Miso (Crab Tomalley) With Scorched Rice

Crab season is at its height here on Long Island, and the kids and I caught quite a few blue claws at the local docks. While I often love them plain with just a little butter and lemon, I wanted to do something special with 

Traditional Polish Chanterelle Egg Scramble

Traditional Polish Chanterelle Egg Scramble

I’m getting my bathroom renovated and the construction company is comprised of a group of hard working Polish immigrants and I’ve been giving them bags of produce to take home from my garden, where my tomatoes have exploded and I haven’t been able to keep up with processing them. One of them, a young man who can’t be more than 20 years old but has probably been working since he was in his teens, said they reminded him of his grandmother’s garden back in Poland.

Realizing that they were most likely homesick, I showed them my 5lb bag of chanterelles that I foraged from a local park and asked if they would like some. After a lot of excitement, I gave them each about a pound to take home. The boy looked at them and said, almost too quietly for me to hear, that his mother will be so happy. Quite frankly, it was way too early in the day for me to be crying, but the ninja onions started chopping themselves.

I then asked how they traditionally prepare chanterelles because while I can make all sorts of fancy high end things with them, I wanted to taste them how they must remember them, the recipes from their childhood that they left on the other side of the world, that the boy wants to bring to his home so his family could have them too. One of them said his mother used to sautee them in butter with onions, scrambled egg, and served with a dollop of sour cream, with toast so that’s what I set out to make today.

I had it with some homemade bread and black trumpet chicken liver pate. It was absolutely delicious and didn’t overpower the delicate flavor of the mushrooms.

In Polish, chanterelles are called “kurki” meaning “chicks” and for sure their bright yellow colors and furled stature against the dark background of the forest makes you think of tiny little chicks in the woods. In Ukrainian, which borders Poland and where my husband’s grandparents are from, they are called “lisiczki”, or foxy ladies. I absolutely love their names!

Ingredients

  • 1 teaspoon butter
  • 1 handful chanterelles, cleaned and halved
  • 2 tablespoons chopped onions
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 1 tablespoon milk
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Minced chives for garnish
  • Sour cream (optional)
  • Toast (optional)
  1. Over medium high heat, sautee chanterelles and onions in butter until onions are fragrant and chanterelles are crisped around the edges.
  2. Beat egg with milk and add to pan, scramble until just set. Remove from heat, add salt and pepper to taste and garnish with minced chives.
  3. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and toast.
Shakin’ Chanterelles

Shakin’ Chanterelles

On my bucket list of mushrooms to find, I knocked off chanterelles this year. I only have oysters and maitake left. I found the chanterelles quite by accident, when we went to my mother-in-laws for a swim in her pool, and again when I decided 

Black Trumpet Cream

Black Trumpet Cream

We went over to my mother-in-laws for a swim and I took a short walk through her woodsy backyard. Had it not been for my little daughter who excitedly shouted she found mushrooms, I would have completely missed the mass of black trumpets growing out 

Wild Mushroom Julienne

Wild Mushroom Julienne

I was getting a bit overwhelmed with the amount of mushrooms I had collected that were sitting in the freezer. I had about 2 pounds of various boletes and five pounds of trimmed chicken of the woods. A julienne seemed to be a great way to use it up while showcasing the flavors of the mushrooms. I made this slightly lighter (using a milk and roux) version because it can be really heavy and rich.

I think my favorite way of serving it is slathered on toast with some eggs in the morning. Almost like a truffled benedict.

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
  • 1 tablespoon minced parsley
  • 1 cup chicken of the woods, bite sized
  • 1 cup boletes, bite sized
  • 1 tablespoon flour
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 2 tablespoons sour cream
  • 1/2 cup shredded cheese (Parmesan, Swiss, Gruyere, or Cheddar)
  • 1 tablespoon white wine
  • Salt and Pepper to Taste
  1. In a pan over medium high heat, sautee garlic in butter until fragrant. Add chicken of the woods and boletes and cook until tender. Add white wine.
  2. Add flour and cook until golden. Stir in milk and heat until smooth and thickened.
  3. Add minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and remove from heat.
  4. Combine with sour cream. Top with cheese. Optionally place into an oven safe crock and broil for about 5 minutes or until cheese is melted and slightly charred.
Roasted Quail With Wild Mushroom Cream

Roasted Quail With Wild Mushroom Cream

Warning: This post contains descriptions of processing live backyard quail for consumption.  I hadn’t imagined I was going to be making this post any time soon, and rather believed it would have been much later in the year (or even the next) as my quail