Blog

Roasted Pork Belly Buns

Roasted Pork Belly Buns

Normally “gua bao” is made with melt in your mouth fatty braised pork, with cilantro and crushed peanuts for traditional Taiwanese fare. That will probably be a recipe for another day. Instead, this is a simple roasted pork belly, spiced and done in the air 

Cabbage Miso

Cabbage Miso

The only issue I have with this particular rice topping is that…. a whole head of cabbage gets cooked down to just a few small jars of this delicious dish and it disappears in a flash. Bakke miso, which is made with the Japanese butterbur, 

Chopped Chicken Liver

Chopped Chicken Liver

This was the recipe that gave me absolute joy to work with, not because it’s exceptionally difficult or anything but because the homemade version 1. tastes NOTHING like the store-bought version, and 2. it tastes 3000x better. It’s the recipe that made me yell “what the fuck?!?” when I did the first taste test, because not only could I not stop shoving it into my mouth, but that it surprised me because of just how different it really is.

I must confess, I only really buy chopped liver at the store when I’m craving pate but am too lazy to make it myself. It’s super rich so I tend to not eat that much of it at a time. The store-bought kind also is very sweet, and really just tastes like puree’d liver.

I’m not entirely sure what the magic actually is that makes it so different and so delicious—is it the rendered chicken fat? The caramelized onions that are super sweet and fragrant? The crispy bits of chicken skin? I may never know. Liver is a cheap but high source of protein, and it’s an organ meat that’s treated both like trash and like gods. You either love it or hate it. When it’s pate, it’s treated as high end fancy cuisine, and expensive to boot but the part itself is one of the cheapest to purchase. I hate wasting any part of an animal as well, so the fact that it’s delicious is the cherry on top.

You can pulse half in the food processor and fold in the rest, but I just chopped it up and mixed so the different ingredients still maintained their own integrity. Caramelizing the onions and rendering the chicken fat (called “schmaltz”) and the creating the crispy skin byproduct (“gribenes”) takes a while, but my goodness it is worth it.

I like to cook the onions in big pieces and then chop them up small after they’ve caramelized—remember to do it slow. You want it caramelized, not burned, which can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour, babying it on the stove. If it burns, it’ll turn everything bitter, so best not to rush. If you needed the seal of approval, Martha gave it two nubby thumbs, WAY UP.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb chicken livers (make sure you inspect them well and remove any parts that have discolored—green indicates they touched bile which is bitter. You should also make sure the bile sac isn’t still attached. I don’t trim them otherwise, but you can if you’d like.)
  • 1lb chicken skin and fat, chopped into pieces
  • 1 large onion (should be bigger than your fist. I like sweet or vidalia), cut into rings
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 hardboiled eggs
  1. Cook the chicken skin over medium until all the fat has been rendered and the skin is crispy and brown. Remove the skin along with half the fat into a large mixing bowl and set to the side.
  2. Caramelize the onion in the remaining chicken fat over medium low heat, until caramelized. About 45 minutes. Caramelized onions are sweet and almost melt in your mouth. Chop and then add to the mixing bowl.
  3. Cook the chicken livers over medium high heat until no more liquid comes out. I crush them in the pan so the middle cooks faster. Chop and add to the mixing bowl. Overcooking will cause it to be dry, so it’s best to take it off heat (residual heat will continue to cook it) right before it’s fully gray throughout.
  4. Add salt and pepper to taste, two hardboiled eggs to the mixing bowl, and with a fork, mash along with the rest of the ingredients. Alternatively you can pulse half in the food processor and fold the rest together.

Costa Rica Diaries 2021

Costa Rica Diaries 2021

This is it. The trip we’ve been waiting for! (This week needs to go by faster.) The kids are finally old enough to go (and have had both their Covid vaccines) and I’ve been bubbling with excitement! It’s not just for a (much needed) vacation 

Bottarga/Karasumi/Wuyuzi, Butter, and Crackers

Bottarga/Karasumi/Wuyuzi, Butter, and Crackers

This is less of a “recipe” and more of a discovered-a-traditional-way-of-eating-something-that-blew-my-mind. I always have bottarga/karasumi/wuyuzi which is the cured roe of mullet (a specialty of both Italy and Taiwan) in my fridge at any given time—it satisfies my cravings for something salty, briney, and full 

Home Made Dried Bamboo Shoots

Home Made Dried Bamboo Shoots

This actually isn’t my recipe (nor much of a recipe at all, more of a narrated process)—it’s my mom’s and it’s definitely not from around these parts, but from Costa Rica! Speaking of that gorgeous Central American country that my parents fell in love with and set roots into during my teen years, I’m very excited and looking forward to the next few weeks/months when my and Adam’s passport renewals come in (we had renewed them late August so they should be getting here any day now, the kids got theirs way earlier) because we’ll begin traveling down there regularly (likely Christmas break, Midwinter break, Spring break, and Summer break!) We had really been waiting for when the kids were old enough to travel, but then coronatine hit and our plans got pushed back.

Aside from the fact that I really need to get down there because I got eminent domain’d (the government is expanding their two-lane highway which requires about 15 meters into the farm I’ll be managing), we’re also planning on building our vacation home there, which is an exciting venture all on its own. It’ll be relatively simple, since my dad has a few container houses ready to be dropped off that just needs foundation and hookups and we will likely be staying half the time at the seaside Airbnb/small hotel they and my sister built in the port of Punta Renas anyway (and the other half on the main farm’s entrance cottage). Me and my sister spent many a childhood vacations down there, chasing iguanas and geckos, pulling fruits right off trees and shoving them (especially mangos) down our pie-hole, lasso-ing scorpions, grabbing snakes out of ovens with chopsticks, horseback riding, capturing tarantulas the size of our hands, and watching super charged fireflies light up the dark forest. But I have to admit beyond bringing my children to experience a piece of my precious memories, I’m probably most excited about building a tropical food forest down there (a counterpart to my temperate food forest up here), since it really is a veritable Garden of Eden—plants grow quick, healthy, and strong. Which brings me to the origin of this particular “recipe”.

My parents of course had a head start all these years and have planted so many fruits and vegetables (and my dad often sends me photos of his hauls much to my extreme envy). Among all the other stuff, they cultivated a grove of bamboo in the back of the main farm where this recipe is from. Bamboo is really an amazing plant, both from a sustainability point of view (they sequester carbon at an alarmingly fast rate due to the speed of their growth, are easy and hardy, can be used to create furniture, charcoal/biochar) and culinary point of view (their leaves are used to wrap and steam glutinous rice to impart a sublime flavor, you can roast/grill pork and rice by stuffing them into the segments, delicious bamboo shoots). It is culturally significant and is deeply ingrained in Asian culture. Aside from using bamboo for furniture building, my parents have also been harvesting the delicious shoots, at their peak tenderness using a really cool method:

Instead of allowing the shoots to go underground, what they have done is surround the bamboo clumps with a wooden raised bed, and filled it with wood shavings from their teak tree thinnings (the main crop they grow). What this does is instead of having to dig into the soil to harvest them, the shoots grow above ground in the shavings, making it easy to see when there are available shoots to harvest by feeling around (they immediately start getting bitter when they reach sunlight, so keeping them in the dark is important) and to harvest, since there is very little digging involved. It is said they are more tender because they don’t have to work as hard pushing through soil.

Then the shoots are then peeled and boiled in salt water (to remove the bitterness, astringency, and toxic qualities–when consumed raw, bamboo shoots produce cyanide in the gut but is harmless once cooked), sliced, and then set out to dry and then stored for long term use. Delicate, tender, and fragrant, these are the best dried bamboo shoots I have ever eaten (and quite frankly, ruined me for store bought which are often tough and need to be trimmed.) I reconstitute them in either hot water or hot dashi for soups, salads, noodles, stir fries, and of course RAMEN. I haven’t tried it yet but I imagine it would be delicious marinated in chili oil. Alas, my mom only brought back so much, but you can bet when we go I will be working on harvesting and processing them to bring back!

I hope this mouthwatering ingredient is just a small snapshot of all the good and fun things to come!

Bed and Breakfast Diaries, Part 7: Ghibli Easter Eggs

Bed and Breakfast Diaries, Part 7: Ghibli Easter Eggs

So as part of the whole experience, the first floor rear unit is themed with Studio Ghibli Easter eggs hidden around the unit. I grew up on Studio Ghibli films, and for the most part they were positive and nostalgic and just lovely. I say 

Blowfish Tenzaru Soba

Blowfish Tenzaru Soba

I haven’t had a chance to break out my bento boxes lately but decided to TREAT MYSELF today with blowfish tempura and soba. This style of soba, tenzaru, is eaten cold, with a small teacup or bowl of soba soy sauce (mentsuyu), and delicious and 

Blowfish Corn Chowder With Potato Dumplings

Blowfish Corn Chowder With Potato Dumplings

Next up on the blowfish series: Blowfish corn chowder with potato dumplings. Okay, so the only reason I made potato dumplings instead of straight potatoes in this chowder is because I’m really into low waste and had leftover mashed potatoes and tempura batter (which mixed together, makes pretty easy potato dumplings). You can, and should probably use regular potatoes unless you for some reason like extra work or happen to have mashed potatoes on hand—potato dumplings are, of course, absofrickin’lutely delicious so I wouldn’t blame anyone for still making it despite my entreaty to laziness.

This creamy chowder uses a mire poix and herb broth made from the backbones of the blowfish which are (ha) fished out before adding the main ingredients. Soothing, creamy, delicious, it’s a wonderful way to use blowfish. I add the fish pieces at the very end so it doesn’t get too tough or disintegrate. Blowfish actually holds up to cooking pretty well, so generous pieces of blowfish is called for.

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup onion, diced
  • 3 tablespoons celery, diced (more if you like celery)
  • 1/4 cup carrot, diced
  • 4 cloved garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1/2 cup potatoes, diced or 1/2 cup potato dumplings (1/3rd cup mashed potatoes, 1 egg, 2 tablespoons flour)
  • 1 pinch thyme
  • 1 pinch nutmeg
  • 1 pinch chili powder
  • 1 teaspoon dill
  • 1 cup blowfish filet, chopped to 1/2 inch pieces
  • Blowfish spines that were reserved from filleting
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup cream, half and half, or milk
  • 1/2 cup sweet corn kernels
  • 1 teaspoon chicken or vegetable bouillon powder (optional)
  1. If making potato dumplings, combine mashed potatoes, egg, and flour together.
  2. In a pot over medium high heat, saute onion, celery, garlic, and carrots in butter until fragrant.
  3. Add blowfish spines, water, and potatoes (or drop 1 inch potato dumpling dough one by one) and bring to a boil. Cook until potatoes/potato dumplings are done.
  4. Remove blowfish spines, add sweet corn, cream/half-and-half/milk, blowfish pieces, thyme, nutmeg, chili powder, dill, bouillon, and bring to a boil.
  5. Once the blowfish are fully cooked through, about 5 minutes, serve with dill garnish.
Tempura Blowfish Taco

Tempura Blowfish Taco

I wasn’t kidding when I said it’s going to be a week of blowfish, but looking at the damage I realize it may be more like three days of blowfish as I evidently didn’t take into account that my children would blow through them as