You got chicks coming in, either by mail or eggs in the incubator, and you want to know which heating option is the best for your fluffy and adorable new arrivals. You know there are a few types out there, but what are the actual advantages and disadvantages of each? I’ve brooded hundreds of ducklings and chicks over the years, and have used every type of heat source (including myself and hot water bottles one year due to a failure) under the sun and so I decided to put together a simple review of the two most commonly used heat sources for those looking to brood at home, along with some emergency or non-standard options if you find yourself without power or a heater.

Remember, you should always provide one hot side and one cool side, so the birds can self regulate their body temperature. Reduce the hot side by 5 degrees each week, until the heated side temperature reaches the ambient outside temp, at which point they can be removed from heat.

Looking for a guide to brooding ducklings? Click Here

Looking for a guide to brooding quail chicks? Click Here

The Two Most Common Heat Sources: Heat lamps vs. Top Brooders

Heat Lamps

What are heat lamps?

Heat lamps are the most commonly used heat source for brooding chicks and ducklings at home. It usually consists of the lamp itself plus a heat bulb, either incandescent, infrared, or ceramic that is either hung or clamped above the brooder. You adjust the temperature by changing the height between the lamp and the bedding.

What are the pros to using a heat lamp?

• Heat lamps are one of the cheapest options available on the market, only costing about $10 for the lamp itself, and a few bucks for the bulbs.
• Ceramic and infrared bulb options allow chicks to sleep when the sun goes down which means their sleep won’t get disturbed by the light.
• Can be used in the future for ill adult poultry, or ill chicks which may be startled by light suddenly coming on and off if you have to check on them in the middle of the night,
• Doesn’t get as dirty as top plate brooders since the ducklings/chicks don’t come into contact with it.
• Options such as cages for the lamp unit can help decrease the chances of a fire, and so long as precautions are taken, the actual chances of a flame hazards are low.
• Good for large, specialized poultry such as geese, emu, ostrich, and turkeys since the height is fully adjustable.

What are the cons to using a heat lamp?

• They are considered a fire hazard since if the clamps fail and they drop onto the bedding, it can set the bedding ablaze.
• If the lamp falls into the brooder, it can burn chicks and kill them.
• If too close to plastic brooders, can cause plastic to melt.
• Dust from the bedding or the poultry that settle on the lamp can cause smoke.
• The bulbs can break which can cut you or the chicks.
• Bulbs have to be changed out every so often when they no longer work, which is extra work as well as an extra cost.
• May be difficult to adjust the height, depending on your brooder.
• High energy consumption.

Where To Buy:

Your local home improvement (Home Depot, Lowes) will usually have them in stock, poultry/livestock and feed supply stores (such as Tractor Supply or Agway), pet supply shops in the reptile section (such as Petsmart or Petco.)

Top Plate Brooders

What are plate brooders/top brooders?

Plate brooders/top brooders are the other mainstream option for a heat source when brooding chicks and ducklings. They are radiant heaters that provide heat from above, usually with adjustable height settings for the most commonly kept poultry.

What are the pros to using a plate brooder/top brooder?

• Plate brooders don’t pose as fire hazards, and many are rated for zero clearance (so touching the bedding or the chicks won’t burn them.)
• Allow chicks and ducklings to sleep, since there is no extra light to keep them awake at night.
• Longevity since each unit can last years.
• No risk of breaking glass shards or the extra cost of having to switch out bulbs.
• Can be moved out to be used in the coop without fear of burning the coop down.
• Easier to store with removable legs and flat, compact shape.
• Lower wattage so lower energy consumption (may use only 1/4 – 1/3rd of heat lamps.)
  

What are the cons to using a plate brooder/top brooder?

• Height limit—larger poultry such as goslings, emu, ostrich, or turkey poults will outgrow the brooder before they can fully go outside.
• Can get dirty because the chicks/ducklings jump on top of it. Shields exist to prevent them from jumping on it, but they still need to be cleaned.
• Can’t be used for ill adult birds due to the height limit.
• Price is a higher initial investment, almost 4x as much as lamp and bulbs.
• Can’t easily see what the chicks/ducklings are up to when they are huddled under, since the brooder plate is not transparent. This may cause you to miss some that may be ill or non-thriving. You will have to be diligent about checking on every bird you have.
• Space requirements—make sure you check your brooder’s space before ordering since each heating unit has a set size.

Where To Buy:

You local feed and poultry supply shop may have these, but the most reliable way to get them is on Amazon. I’ve included a link below to the type I have.

FINAL VERDICT: Plate Brooder

Why choose a top Plate Brooder?

Ultimately, for safety and comfort, top plate brooders are the gold standard for at home brooding. Plate brooders allow chicks and ducklings to sleep when night falls, no danger of burns, breaking bulbs, or fires, and last a long time without having to change out parts such as spent heat bulbs. The initial investment is higher than any of the other heating options, but well worth the cost. They get dirtier quicker though, so you’ll have to be diligent about cleaning between clutches.

If you brood large poultry though, such as geese, emu, ostrich, and turkey, you’ll want heat lamps since they can be adjusted higher for these extra large chicks.

Emergency and Non-Standard Heat Sources

If you find yourself in a pinch, either without power or your heat source broke/failed, here are some ideas for emergency heat.

1. Reptile Heat Mat – These are readily available at your local pet supply store, meant for sticking to the underside of a tank for snakes and lizards. They come in several sizes and last quite long, with no fire or burn risk since they are meant for use with reptile bedding (most commonly wood shavings.) These are a bit expensive, and I usually use aluminum foil hut over it in order to trap in the heat.
2. Heating pads – If you have an old heating pad, you can use it int he same way as the reptile heat mat. Be aware it will likely be disgusting once you’re done with it.
3. Hot water bottle – This option is good for those who still have access to hot water, even if you don’t have access to electric power (you can heat hot water in a kettle on a gas stove, or if you have a grill or fire pit outside.) This will need to be changed out frequently depending on your ambient temperature.
4. Body heat – While this is a relatively gross option and not one I would usually recommend since chicks and ducklings have no control over their bowels, and can be carriers of parasites and diseases, if you have absolutely no other option, placing them in your clothes can help. Just be careful not to smother them, and be aware some have sharp claws.
5. Rice Heating Bag – Microwaving raw rice in a cloth bag (be careful, will be hot) for 2 minutes can be used in place of a hot water bottle.