“…I was almost there when Nielsen’s head poked out from his cooking cell.

‘You miss your lunch, Mr. Herriot. You have tough time, you look tired, Wait there.’ He held up a hand. ‘I make you something.’

I stood in the doorway as he laid out a slice of rye bread and began to chop onto it tiny pieces of raw steak. He slashed away like lightning, his huge knife glinting with expert movements. Then he began to whittle away at a raw onion till the meat was covered with the fragments, then followed this by cracking an egg onto the top of the pile. He finished by dusting the whole mound with salt and black pepper before holding the final result proudly in my direction.

‘Beef tartare!’ His voice had a triumphant ring. ‘You eat, Mr. Herriot. You feel better!’

I shrank back a pace. How could I possibly eat this concoction? Raw meat, uncooked egg–it was unthinkable. I was desperately scouring my mind for some excuse to decline when I looked up again at Nielsen’s beaming face. He was my friend, this unsung genius of the galley, and he was trying to succour me in my time of need. I would undoubtedly be ill later, but I couldn’t say no.

It took courage, but I thanked him, seized the heaped slice of bread and bit resolutely into it. I thought if I held my breath throughout I wouldn’t taste anything, but there was too much of it, and as I exhaled I got the full flavor. It was delicious.”

This particular excerpt by James Herriot has stayed with me throughout my childhood, and probably is responsible for my almost fanatical love of beef tartare. One of my most beloved authors, James Herriot, a country vet working in Yorkshire was on a ship to Russia, taking care of a cargo of sheep when he encountered this particular dish.

Now that I’m an adult, I can make it when and where I’d like, so long as I have access to a butcher. It doesn’t matter so much which cut of beef you use–what matters is that it’s fresh enough for raw eating.

You can make it as simple as the excerpt did (which I have done) or with a dressing like this particular recipe. I love both styles and make them often.

Ingredients

• 8 ounces steak, cubed and chilled until very firm, about 1 hour
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoon dijon mustard
• 3 tablespoons diced onion (minced chives, or chive blossoms)
• 1 tablespoon capers, minced
• 1tablespoon cornichons, minced
• 1/4 teaspoon hot sauce
• Pinch of salt, to taste
• Pinch of pepper, to taste
• 1 egg yolk (Duck or Chicken)
• Serve with crackers, bread, toast points, microgreens

1. Mix olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, capers, hot sauce, onion, salt, and pepper together in a bowl until well combined.
2. You can hand chop the steak (chilling it until very firm in the freezer makes it easier to chop into small pieces) or you can give it a short spin in a food processor, until roughly chopped.
3. Toss the meat with the dressing and top with egg yolk. Serve with crackers or bread, toast points, and microgreens.