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Smoked Quail Egg Conserves

Smoked Quail Egg Conserves

I’ve had smoked trout and smoked cheese conserves in a Costa Rican resort when we visited my parents last year and had wanted to do something similar, and then in passing I saw a recipe for Hungarian smoked quail eggs in oil. Try as I 

Nikogori (Fish Aspic)

Nikogori (Fish Aspic)

This “dish” is usually what’s considered ”accidental” as in it’s a byproduct of cooking or braising fish, rendering a gelatinous broth that is cooled and solidified (although now there are places that make it specifically)—often done with eel but it can actually be made with 

Torched Wagyu Donburi (with Yuzu Sansho Sukiyaki sauce and Quail Egg)

Torched Wagyu Donburi (with Yuzu Sansho Sukiyaki sauce and Quail Egg)

My sister bought 12lbs of A5 Wagyu for a pretty and decadent penny and then gave me a hunk of it after we had a barbecue. This level of marbling in the wagyu makes it a slightly difficult ingredient to work with–heat it for too long and it renders the fat and shrinks to nothing, and you can’t eat too much of it because of how rich it can be (between the 8 of us, we ate just a few bites each and was full for the rest of the day!) So eating it as “steak” can be a bit overwhelming.

I decided to go traditional with it and this is still my favorite method of eating a nice marbled piece of beef–Adam had some and said it’s like the toro of red meat. I made a small bento of it for Hagihara-sensei, who, like Adam, compared it to eating really amazing sushi. This particular dish is why I decided to bite the bullet and get a kitchen torch–something I saw as a useless extra, but torching ingredients really does make it better, with a slightly smokey flavor reminiscent of having done it over charcoal.

Yuzu sansho is a condiment I keep, a little jar goes a long way. It’s a delicious condiment made by using yuzu, chilis, and sansho peppercorn (sometimes the leaves) and salt. It really provides an extra tang that cuts through the richness of the wagyu. A dab of it in sukiyaki sauce provides a surprising burst of freshness that makes me miss my sansho pepper tree at my old place, and has reminded me I need to plant some here.

The quail egg yolk is from my quails, of course.

Ingredients

  • 4oz wagyu beef (or marbled short rib), sliced thin
  • 1 bowl hot white rice
  • 1 quail egg, yolk only
  • Minced spring onion, for garnish
  • Sauce: 1/4 teaspoon yuzu sansho, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 teaspoon mirin, 1/2 teaspoon sugar, 1 tablespoon sake, 1 tablespoon water
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  1. Combine the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, sake, and water together, microwave for 15 seconds and then allow to cool. Add yuzu sansho and mix well.
  2. Place raw wagyu slices over white rice, sprinkle a little salt and pepper, and then torch until desired done-ness (should really be kept rare if possible.)
  3. Drizzle with sauce and garnish with spring onions and quail egg yolk.
Octopus Confit (with Lemon White Bean Puree and Salad Burnet)

Octopus Confit (with Lemon White Bean Puree and Salad Burnet)

My mom gave me a package of octopus before she left for Costa Rica–I’ve been meaning to make something with it but never got around to the doing part, mostly because octopus has a long prep time and I wanted to make sure I gave 

Broiled Oysters With Garden Herbs and Garlic Butter

Broiled Oysters With Garden Herbs and Garlic Butter

My sister came over today much to everyone’s (especially the kids’ who are obsessed with her) delight and of course, being two foodies who love to cook (and one an actual chef), we got to working on shucking a baker’s dozen (plus an extra one) 

Venison Carpaccio

Venison Carpaccio

Sometimes I get venison from friends who are hunters which is always a treat. I find raw venison to be less gamey than cooked, so it’s one of my favorite ways to eat it. Obligatory warning that consuming raw meat can lead to food-borne illnesses. Carpaccio tends to be simple—a drizzle of olive oil, a spritz of some sort of acid (lemon or vinaigrette), and some greens. It’s sort of like a deconstructed tartare. Sometimes salty little capers or cheese show up for a burst of flavor.

For this recipe I wanted to showcase the things I grew at my new place, one that my own two hands had a part in making. Thinly sliced venison with a quail egg from my quails, topped with basil, chives, salad burnet, a tiny tomato quarter from an itty bitty tomato, salt cured lemon, a sprinkling of parmesan, olive oil, cracked black pepper and smoked sea salt.

As it is, there are no measurements mainly because it’s all to taste. It satisfied my (and the kids) love for tartare, and we were sad when it came to an end. There’s no reason why it can’t be done with another mix of herbs, but that’s just what I had on hand.

Bumper Egg Crepes

Bumper Egg Crepes

The whole house came down with some vengeful stomach virus for almost two weeks (it went around TWICE) and that meant that we had an overflow of eggs from the chickens that hadn’t been used (try keeping down eggs—it’s not fun.) What was I going 

Berry Crumble Bars With Lemon Lavender Icing

Berry Crumble Bars With Lemon Lavender Icing

I dried a bunch of lavender last year and between syrups, jams, and baked goods, I always enjoy adding a bit of this floral treasure to give a subtle hint of irresistible deliciousness that makes me think of spring. These tasty bars with a crumbly 

Jiu Cai He Zi/Garlic Chive Pan Fried Pockets

Jiu Cai He Zi/Garlic Chive Pan Fried Pockets

It’s spring and one of the first things to pop up in my garden is garlic chives—different than onion chives, the leaves are flat and the flavor similar to ramps but less intense. It’s a popular Asian vegetable and dead easy to grow. With my poultry in full egg production mode, I love making scrambled eggs with it, dumplings, and these fried pockets.

Traditionally, it’s made with dried salted shrimps, chives, scrambled egg, and mung bean noodle, but you can actually use other things like chicken, pork, shiitake mushrooms too, or just omit the shrimp for a vegetarian version. If you don’t have mung bean noodle, that’s no big deal, rice vermicelli can be used or omit it.

Honestly, it’s most delicious piping hot out of the pan, and everyone in the house runs around with one. For the dough, I use boiling water which makes the dough less elastic and easier to roll out. It’s basically a dumpling skin type dough and you can use it as such. If you stir just a little and let it hydrate/cool slightly before kneading, there will still be some elasticity.

Ingredients (Makes 4)

Dough:

  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup hot water
  • Pinch of salt
  1. Combine flour with salt and then hot water. Stir until crumbles form and allow to rest for 5 minutes.
  2. Knead for 5 minutes until dough is smooth. Rest for 15 minutes, knead for another 5.
  3. Cut onto 4 equal pieces, roll into 4 balls, and flatten with a rolling pin. Should be about 8 inches in diameter.

Filling

  • 1/4 cup chopped garlic chives
  • 2 eggs, scrambled and chopped
  • 1/4 cup vermicelli noodles chopped
  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil
  • 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Pinch of sugar
  • Optional: Fried salted shrimp, chicken, pork, minced shiitake mushrooms
  1. Combine the filling including the vegetable oil and spoon onto dough wrappers. Fold in half and seal. Make sure it is relatively flat.
  2. On a well oiled pan over medium high heat, pan fry until golden and crispy on both sides.

Spicy Steak Tartare Handrolls

Spicy Steak Tartare Handrolls

It’s no secret my kids are fiends for sushi so I often make handrolls at home for them—usually avocado and smoked salmon or some California since they keep well. They also love steak tartare so I always have some nice sirloin or skirt in the