Numb and Fragrant: Szechuan and Sansho Peppercorns
I bought two different types of peppercorn trees (no relation to black pepper) this year: The Sansho peppercorn (zanthoxylum piperitum) and the Szechuan peppercorn (zanthoxylum simulans) for my food forest. The sansho peppercorn is the main flavor you would find in Togarashi Ichimi-Shichimi powder, the little shakers of Japanese pepper flakes that go divine on everything from ramen (my husband PILES it on even though it’s quite hot) to katsudon to takoyaki. It’s flavor is much more citrus-y and delicate than the “in your face” strength of the szechuan peppercorn, though both are delicious for their own applications due to their fragrance.
My father’s family is from the Chinese province of Szechuan (my mother’s is from Nanking) which is reknown for their spicy cuisine. Both sets of my grandfathers were part of the military/police force, and fled to Taiwan during the communist revolution (to stay meant a prison sentence or death.) Szechuan’s most famous herb is the numbing spice, the Szechuan (sometimes spelled “Sichuan”) Peppercorn, which is not so much spicy as it produces a tingling and numbing sensation on the tongue. Other plants in this genus are often called “toothache” trees for this very reason as it can give short term relief to tooth pain.
I had done some research on peppercorns a few years ago and realized that they can be grown where I am in Zone 7. However, due to a restriction on their importation (they are part of the citrus family and could possibly introduce a disease that is very harmful to citrus crops) that was only lifted recently, plants are difficult to find and expensive to boot. However, I managed to purchase a few and got them in the ground this spring. They are dioecious, meaning there are separate male and female plants. I don’t know which one I have yet, but both genders can be used in terms of spice (leaves and flowers), although the female eventual fruit’s outer shell tastes the strongest. They seem to do well in full sun, part shade, or even deep shade, and is tolerant of a wide range of soils and acidity, although they prefer to stay well watered. They get tall (15-20 feet) and are tree/shrub like.
They do have thorns so care should be taken when handling–I’ve gotten pricked multiple times, but love them so much I don’t mind at all.